Thursday, July 28

Egg and Cheddar Sandwich



Today is my birthday so I am going to eat whatever I want... and what I really want is this breakfast sandwich.  My favorite white cheddar cheese, sharp, rich and crumbly.  A local and organic egg, perfectly cooked in butter.  A good old Thomas brand English muffin, toasted and smeared with, yes, more butter.  That's it.  Rich, hot and creamy from the still-runny yolk.  I am going to dip my sandwich into any yolk and butter that drips onto my plate.  I may even lick the plate.  No judgment please, it's my birthday.

Egg and Cheddar Sandwich
makes 1

1 egg, preferably organic
1 slice of sharp, white cheddar
1 English muffin, preferably Thomas brand
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp butter, softened

Preheat your oven broiler set to low and move a rack to the top position.  Split the English muffin, place it on a baking sheet split side up and lightly toast it under the broiler.  Once the muffin is golden, remove the pan from the oven, smear one half of the muffin with softened butter and place the slice of cheddar on the other half.  Place the pan back under the broiler until the cheese has melted.

Meanwhile, place a small, oven proof saute pan on the stove over medium-high heat. Add a tablespoon of softened butter to the heating pan.  Grease the inside of a 2-1/2 to 3 inch round cookie cutter with a teaspoon of softened butter and place it in the pan with the butter, cutter side down.  (This will serve as a mold for the egg). Once the butter has melted and starts to bubble, drop your egg into the mold, being careful not to break the yolk.  Allow the egg to cook for about 2 minutes or until you can see that the bottom of the egg has cooked a bit and turned white.

If you have not already done so, remove the sheet pan with the English muffin from the oven and place the saute pan with the molded egg under the broiler.  Cook until the top of the egg has started to bubble but the yolk is still runny and bright, 2-4 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler and size of your mold.  Remove the pan from the oven.  Using a small paring knife, run the blade around the inside of the cookie cutter to release the egg from the mold.  (Be careful, the mold will be hot).  Lift the mold off the egg and then, using a spatula, carefully transfer the egg to the cheesy half of the muffin.  Top with the other half of the muffin and eat immediately.

Crumbly, flavorful white cheddar.  Pick a cheddar with some bite.
My current favorite happens to be made by a very talented 19 year old Amish cheese maker in Iowa.  
Toasted nooks and crannies.  One side smothered in melted cheddar.  The other in butter.  
Carefully drop an egg into your makeshift mold.
After a few minutes under the broiler it is perfectly cooked with a still-runny yolk peeking through.
Ready for breakfast.
Soak up the drips of yolk and butter with the side of your sandwich.
No judgement.  

Thursday, July 21

Summer Berry Hand Pies



These little pies are one of my new favorite things.  They are the perfect size, they pack up beautifully for a picnic, they taste of summer and they are completely delicious.  You can fill them with any fresh, summery berries, and the not-too-sweet pate brisee crust is perfectly flakey and buttery.  They're rustic, simple to make and wonderfully old-fashioned.  I used a mixture of tart cherries, raspberries and blackberries.  A little lemon zest and vanilla for more flavor.  A brush of egg wash over the dough and a sprinkling of sugar for a little more sweetness.  So good. Take these along on your next picnic or enjoy them right at home.  Wherever you eat them, these hand-held pies will surely become one of your new favorite summer desserts.

Summer Berry Hand Pies
Makes 6

for the pate brisee (only slightly adapted from this recipe):
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter, cubed and very cold
1/2 cup ice water

Put flour, salt and sugar into the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times to combine.  Add the very cold butter (I put mine in the freezer for about 5 minutes before I use it) to the flour mixture and pulse until the butter is the size of small peas.  With the processor running, slowly pour the ice water through the feeding tube into the flour and butter mixture.  Keep pouring only until the dough starts to clump together, being sure to not to add more water than necessary (the dough may still appear a bit crumbly).  Dump the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap, wrap the dough up and mold into a flat disc.  Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

for the pies:
2-3 cups of berries (pitted cherries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, blueberries or any other berry you like)
zest of 1/2 a lemon
juice of 1/2 a lemon
2/3 cup sugar (more or less depending on how tart your berries are) + 1/4 cup for sprinkling
1/2 tsp vanilla
2 Tbsp cornstarch
1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.  In a large bowl, combine the berries, lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar, vanilla and cornstarch.  Stir to combine and set aside while you roll out your dough.

Remove dough from the refrigerator, lightly flour your counter and roll the dough out to 1/16th inch to 1/8th of an inch thickness.  Cut 5 inch circles in the dough, re-rolling the scraps until you have 6 circles (I used a bowl as a guide and cut the dough circles with a paring knife).  Place the circles on your parchment lined baking sheet.  Evenly divide the berries between the circles of dough, being sure to leave most of the accumulated juices in the bowl.  Using a pastry brush, paint a bit of egg wash around one half of the edge of each dough circle.  Fold the other half over, and seal the edges tightly with your fingers to form a pouch.  If desired, use a pastry wheel to cut a decorative fluted edge.  Brush the sealed pies liberally with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar.  With a paring knife, cut a few slits on the top of each pie.

Bake for 20 minutes or until the dough is golden brown and the juices are bubbling. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack before eating.
Fill your dough rounds with a mound of sweet, fresh berries.
A pastry wheel adds an old-fashioned and decorative edge.
A brush of egg wash gives a golden glow and helps the sugar adhere to the dough.
Bake until the juices bubble and the crust is slightly golden.
If you can, wait for them to cool completely before enjoying.
Sweet, flakey and fruity.
Forks are completely optional.

Thursday, July 14

Sparkling Rosé and Lillet Cocktail


Today is Bastille Day, though I don't really need a holiday to celebrate La France. Since I can't be in Paris sipping champagne, munching on pomme frites and gazing lazily up at the fireworks, I thought I should create my own little Bastille soiree at home. To me, celebrations need bubbles.  Dry, French, bubbly rosé with a generous splash of Lillet, the delicious and faintly citrusy French aperitif wine.  Add a twist, if you desire, and you're all done.  Refreshing, summery, fun and very French.  Here is to sparkling summer cocktails and always finding the perfect excuse to celebrate. À votre santé!

Sparkling Rosé and Lillet Cocktail

1 bottle Brut Rosé, very cold
1 bottle Lillet Blanc, very cold
twists of lemon rind for garnish

Pour 2 ounces of Lillet into each glass.  Top off with sparkling rosé.  Add lemon twists and enjoy.

Ice cold Lillet.  Sweet, citrusy and the perfect accompaniment to this cocktail.
I am always in the mood for crisp, chilled rosé.  
If you can find it, this bottle is wildly cheap and completely delicious.  I have a bottle in my refrigerator at all times.
Add a pour of Lillet to your glasses.
Cover with the softly pink bubbles.
Add a citrusy twist.
Enjoy, French style!

Thursday, July 7

Pasta with Sauteed Cherry Tomatoes



I really like simple pastas.  Especially simple pastas with tomato, basil and garlic.  I tend to create a new recipe that includes these ingredients each season and eat it over and over again.  Obviously, summer dinners scream for fresh tomatoes, and the trio of tomato, garlic and basil is such an amazing pasta flavor combination (as also seen here in my latest winter variation).  Fruity olive oil, fresh basil and crushed garlic.  Saute whole cherry tomatoes until they pop.  Cook down until sweet, chunky and fragrant.  Toss with hot, freshly boiled pasta.  Man this is so delicious. For such a simple recipe, it packs a ton of flavor.  Your entire house will smell of summer and you'll want to eat all of the sauce right out of the pan.  Try to wait, though, because when the hot pasta hits the tomatoes the smell gets even better.  If you wish, finish your pasta with a sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano, but that really isn't necessary.  This fresh and simple summer pasta is perfect all on it's own.

Pasta with Sauteed Cherry Tomatoes
Serves 2 generously

1/2 lb pasta (I used whole wheat spaghetti but any pasta would work)
kosher salt
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 pints cherry tomatoes (or any small tomato variety)
3 large garlic cloves, skin on or off
large handful of fresh basil leaves, torn into large pieces
grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for sprinkling (optional)

In a large pot, boil water for the pasta.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat.  When hot, add the tomatoes.  Carefully, using a chopping knife (or using a metal can or any other flat, hard surface), crush the whole cloves of garlic by pounding them with the flat edge of your knife using a closed fist.  Discard the peel and add the crushed cloves to the pan.  Add the torn basil.  Cook until tomatoes start to burst and pop, shaking the pan every few minutes.  After about 5 minutes pop any tomatoes that have not yet popped themselves using the back of a wooden spoon.  Add a generous pinch of salt, give the sauce a stir and allow it to cook for another 10-15 minutes or until the juices have thickened and the sauce has become almost sticky.  

While the sauce is finishing up, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente or one minute less than the directions on the box suggest.  When the pasta is done, transfer it directly into the pan with the sauce, reserving a little of the pasta water.  Using tongs, toss until the pasta is evenly coated with sauce, adding a little starchy pasta water to add moisture if necessary.  Serve hot, in large bowls with grated parmesan cheese, if desired.

Note:  this sauce also makes a killer pizza.  Add a little fresh mozzerella or burrata, some torn basil and you've got yourself a fine little pizza margherita.

Sweet, juicy and tiny tomatoes.  About to get even sweeter.
Fresh sauce, cooked down until luscious and flavorful.
Dig in, it's summery pasta.

Thursday, June 30

Strawberry Shortcake



When I was young my Mom would make me strawberry shortcake whenever I was sad. It didn't matter what time of day it was, if I was having a bad day she would be there with a big bowl of sweet biscuit, juicy strawberries and whipped cream.  Mom always prepared it the same way:  After the sliced strawberries were tossed in a bowl with sugar and a little lemon, she would bake the biscuit-like shortcakes and whip the cream.  Then, while still warm, she would split a sweet biscuit and spread the insides with butter, a crucial step.  She would then fill the biscuit with the juicy berries and cream.  It was so good.  Enough to get me to stop crying good.  Sweet, creamy, tart and luscious.  Now, whenever June rolls around and strawberries are in season, I always make myself strawberry shortcake the way Mom did.  Somehow it still always makes me feel better.

Strawberry Shortcake
serves 6

For the strawberries and cream:
2 pints ripe strawberries, hulled and sliced in half
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp sugar, divided
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream, cold

For the shortcakes:
follow my buttermilk biscuit recipe (found here) with the following additions:
add 1/2 cup sugar to the dry ingredients
add seeds of 1/2 of a vanilla bean (or 1 tsp pure vanilla) to the cold buttermilk before mixing it in
softened butter for spreading on biscuits

Combine the strawberries with 1 Tbsp sugar and the lemon juice in a bowl.  Cover with plastic and allow to sit at room temperature while you prepare the biscuits.

Once the biscuits have come out of the oven, pour the cold heavy cream into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whip attachment (or use a hand mixer, or whisk by hand) and whip on high until the cream begins to thicken.  Sprinkle in the remaining 1 tsp of sugar and continue to whip until the cream holds a soft peak.  Be careful not to over mix, the cream should still be soft.

Split the biscuits and slather both sides with butter.  Spoon strawberries and juice onto one side of a buttered biscuit.  Follow with a large dollop of whipped cream and top with the other half of the biscuit.  Continue with the remaining biscuits, strawberries and cream.  Serve in bowls or on plates.

Tiny, sweet strawberries fresh from the farmer's market. 
Allowing the strawberries to macerate with sugar and lemon makes them juicy and sweet.
Be sure to butter the inside of each biscuit for even more creamy flavor and richness.
Mound on the berries and juice.
Top with softly whipped cream and finish with buttery biscuit.
This classic dessert will certainly make your day a little better.

Friday, June 24

Roasted Radishes with Bagna Cauda


Farmer's market produce is finally here.  One of my favorite vegetables this time of year is the surprisingly versatile radish.  Spicy and sharp in its raw form, this root veg gets amazingly sweet and creamy after a short stint in the oven. These roasted jewels get even more delicious tossed lightly in a quick and nutty bagna cauda.  No need to fear the anchovies here, all fishiness is sauteed away with garlic, butter and oil, leaving only an addictively toasty nuttiness.  Pile it all high onto toasted crusty bread and you have yourself the perfect summer appetizer, light lunch or quick snack.  Salty, nutty and sweet, this dish is a great way to utilize some of the first, and most versatile, summer crop.

Roasted radishes with bagna cauda
serves 4 as an appetizer
adapted from this recipe from the New York Times


2 bunches spring radishes, washed stemmed and sliced in half (or quartered for larger radishes)
6 Tbsp olive oil, divided
sea salt
freshly cracked black pepper
2 Tbsp butter
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
generous pinch of red pepper flake
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
1/2 baguette (or other crusty bread) sliced and toasted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.  Transfer radishes to a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle radishes with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Toss radishes so that they are evenly coated with oil, salt and pepper.  Roast for 10 minutes or until they are just starting to brown.

While the radishes are roasting, combine butter and the remaining 4 Tbsp olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat.  Once butter has melted, add the anchovy, garlic and pepper flake. Saute the mixture for 5 minutes, stirring often.

Transfer roasted radishes to a medium bowl.  Pour the bagna cauda over the radishes to your liking.  (Any remaining bagna cauda can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days).  Add chopped parsley and toss the mixture together.

Arrange toasts on a platter, mound the radishes onto the toasts and serve.

Fresh farmer's market radishes.
These spicy spring radishes become magically sweet after a quick roast. 
Toss them up with this buttery, nutty and garlicy sauce.
A perfect summertime appetizer.

Thursday, June 16

Corned Beef Hash with Fried Eggs (Tribute to Dad)


My Dad is probably the most talented person I know but you will never hear him brag about his abilities.  I love that about him.  We have the same long toes, we both furrow our brow when we're concentrating and we both can tell what the other is thinking just from tone of the other's voice.  He has an immense amount of faith in me and no matter how inadequate I feel, he can always boost my confidence.  He taught me the importance of hard work and of being passionate about what you do. He also introduced me to some of the all time greats including John Steinbeck, ginger ale, Frank Sinatra, Mel Brooks (specifically this movie), good Christmas music and the Beatles.  We both love making pancakes, having long talks outside on summer evenings and enjoying an ice cold Coke on a really hot day.  Incidentally, we both also love going out for breakfast.  I have fond childhood memories of sitting at the table with Dad as he dug into his favorite order - Corned beef hash.  Always ordered with eggs over easy and wheat toast.  So in honor of my Dad, I decided to make his favorite breakfast.  Rich and salty corned beef, griddled with potatoes, onions and thyme.  Finished with a couple of fried eggs.  Savory, hearty and comforting.  Just how Dad likes it.  On and on and on, Daddio.  Happy Father's Day.

Corned Beef Hash
serves 2 generously
adapted from a recipe in Cooks Illustrated

2 medium sized russet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/2 inch dice
kosher salt
1 bay leaf
2 slices of thick cut bacon, chopped
1/2 of a medium onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp fresh thyme
1/2 lb corned beef, finely chopped (most small butcher shops and delis have corned beef)
freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp butter
2 eggs, at room temperature
hot sauce
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

In a medium sauce pot, cover the diced potatoes with cold water.  Add the bay leaf and bring pot to a boil over medium-high heat.  Once boiling, allow potatoes to cook for 4 minutes.  When cooked, drain potatoes, discard bay leaf and set aside.

In a cast iron skillet or large saute pan, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until most of the fat has rendered off.  Add the onion and cook for another 7-10 minutes or until the onions are soft.  Add the thyme and garlic and cook for another minute or until the garlic is fragrant.  Add the corned beef and stir to combine with the onions.  Add in a generous pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper. Add the drained potatoes to the mix and stir until combined.  Using the back of a flat wooden spatula, (or rubber spatula) firmly press the mixture into the bottom of the pan.  Pour the cream over the top of the mixture and add a few dashes of hot sauce, to your taste.  Allow the hash to cook undisturbed for 5 minutes.  Using the spatula, flip the hash over to expose the caramelized bottom and to cook the other side of the mixture (the hash will not flip in one piece, it will be loose).  Once you have flipped all of the hash, press down on the mixture again and allow it to cook for another 2-3 minutes.  Continue pressing and flipping until the hash is cooked, crusted and browned.  Turn off the heat and allow it to rest while you fry the eggs.

In a large non-stick saute pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat.  Crack one of the eggs into a bowl and set aside.  Once the butter is melted and bubbling, pour the egg from the bowl into the pan.  Crack the other egg into the same bowl and pour it into the pan next to the other egg.  Cook for 3-4 minutes or until the whites are set and the bottoms are a bit golden.  Carefully flip the eggs and allow them to cook on the other side for 30 seconds to a minute (you don't want to completely cook the yolks).  Carefully transfer eggs to a plate.

Serve hash on a plate topped with an egg and sprinkled with fresh parsley.  


A trusty old cast iron skillet is the best way to make your hash caramelized and delicious.
Russet potatoes give great flavor and are starchy enough to hold up to the hot skillet.
Save yourself a lot of trouble by buying corned beef from your butcher or favorite deli.  
Hot sauce gives this dish a kick.  Dad likes Tabasco but any brand will do.

Press down on the hash to achieve that crusty, browned flavor.
Happy Father's Day.